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Discussion Starter #1
I'm looking to buying a second hand 2012 Mokka 1.4 sometime in the next 6 months to replace my 253,000 mile Skoda.

What should I lookout for? what are common faults? what are the best places to buy (through this group) ?
 

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I suggest reading through the Forum Threads for answers to the first two questions.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I suggest reading through the Forum Threads for answers to the first two questions.
I did start doing this but its very easy to get bogged down in unrelated items. The forum also covers other models e.g. desels; I was hoping that someone had already experenced the manual 1.4 petrol, who could say for example, go for the 2013 model not the 2012 or make sure it has this not that etc.
 

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The 1.4 is the best to go for and the later the year the better -- 12 and 13 reg could be on starship mileage by now -- the most common faults include clutch and dual mass flywheel, pedal box issues, sticking brakes, various electrical problems, so in other words the mokka like every make of car has its ups and downs and purchasing any early model could with a bit of bad luck turn into a money pit -- so the moral is you pays your money and take a gamble, the used cars may look all polished up but any underlying issues may not show their heads from day one --- so as long as everything works and no knocks or whines are heard only time will tell if you've got a good one -- like life it's a gamble
 

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Discussion Starter #5
The 1.4 is the best to go for and the later the year the better -- 12 and 13 reg could be on starship mileage by now -- the most common faults include clutch and dual mass flywheel, pedal box issues, sticking brakes, various electrical problems, so in other words the mokka like every make of car has its ups and downs and purchasing any early model could with a bit of bad luck turn into a money pit -- so the moral is you pays your money and take a gamble, the used cars may look all polished up but any underlying issues may not show their heads from day one --- so as long as everything works and no knocks or whines are heard only time will tell if you've got a good one -- like life it's a gamble
Thank you, main answer in first sentance I thought that was the case. Yes I've always had secondhand and often run them to 200 - 250k (I had a caverlear lx that went to 200k) cluches depend on the driver, again norm 200k if driven correctly, which brings me to the start/stop function: this is programmed through the cluch so does using it make the cluch last longer as it privents rideing the cluch?
 

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You don’t ride the clutch with s/s .when it’s activated your foot is off the clutch.all you do is put clutch down put in gear and set off .no riding or clutch is done
 

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Discussion Starter #8
The 1.4l harks back to the 1995 1.4 L non turbo. Timing chest with water pump. Often leaks.
Time for a 21st. century engine!
Is this this standard water pump fault which vw etc suffer, plastic impeller that breaks down? That's not too bad a pump is only a few pounds. You also say " time for a 21 CT. engine" so is this the same for all models?
 
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